Lewis
and Clark split the expedition into two exploring parties at Travelers
Rest near present-day Lolo, Montana on July 3, 1805. They planned
to rejoin at the mouth of the Yellowstone River. Clark’s
party included Sacagawea and little Jean Baptiste. One of Clark’s
objectives was to explore the Yellowstone River. About 25 miles
southwest of present-day Billings, Montana Clark’s party
built dugout canoes; they launched them on July 24. By mid-afternoon
on July 25, the canoes had traveled more than 50 miles down river
to the northeast:
. . . at 4 P M arrived at
a remarkable rock Situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard.
Side of the river & 250 paces from it. this rock .
. . I shall Call Pompy’s Tower is 200 feet high
and 400 paces in secumphrance and only axcessable on one Side
which is from the N.E. the other parts of it being a perpendicular
Clift of lightish Coloured gritty rock . . .
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Clark likely named
this feature for Jean Baptiste Charbonneau, nicknamed Pomp. In
the first edition of the History of the Lewis and Clark Expedition
(1814), however, the name became Pompeys Pillar. The pillar was
proclaimed a National Monument in 2001.
The height of the pillar is about 130 feet,
substantially lower than Clark’s estimated 200 feet. Its
base is oval-shaped, about 370 feet by 480 feet, and is nearly
400 yards around. |
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Photo by Ginette
Abdo, MBMG |
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| Photo by Ginette Abdo, MBMG |
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Lewis and Clark left few physical marks on the land as they passed.
Clark’s engraved signature on Pompeys Pillar is one of them.
Rain, wind and frost wear away the soft sandstone that forms
this Pillar, and inscriptions soon fade unless deeply incised.
Clark’s original signature still could be
read in 1876, but has been re-engraved several times. It now is
enclosed and protected.
The nativs have ingraved on the face of this
rock the figures of animals &c. near which I marked my
name and the day of the month & year.
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W.R. Plywell, with the Stanley
Expedition (1873), photographed Pompeys Pillar from the cliffs north
of the river. Today trees obscure the Pillar from this site.
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Photo (no. 106-YX-36)
courtesy of the National Archives |
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How did the Pillar Form?
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| Photo by Ginette Abdo, MBMG |
About 65 million years
ago, during the Late Cretaceous Period . . .
. . . rivers flowing eastward
from the rising Rocky Mountains carried sand, silt, and clay to
a shallow sea just east of present-day Montana. The sand and silt
those rivers deposited here became, with time and compaction, the lightish
Coloured gritty rock that Clark described. Geologists
call this the Lance Formation.
Several million years ago . . .
. . . the Yellowstone River
meandered over its flood plain much as it does now, gradually cutting
its valley deeper. What is now Pompeys Pillar was once part of
the cliffs north of the river.
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A
meander began to eat into the cliff north of the present
Pillar, forming a low neck. Pompeys Pillar Creek also cut
into the weak rock there.
MBMG |
Then, likely
during a flood, the river breached the low neck, separating
the Pillar from the cliffs north of the river, isolating
it on the south side.
MBMG |
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the rib of a fish. . .
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About 6 miles down river
from Pompeys Pillar forty bighorn sheep crowded the cliff
north of the river. The canoes landed and Clark climbed the
cliff. Near the top Clark found a bone protruding from the
soft rock
Rocky cliff that Clark may have
climbed.. |
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by Ginette Abdo, MBMG |
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. . . I employed
my Self in getting pieces of the rib of a fish which
was Semented within the face of the rock This rib
is [about 3] inchs in diame Secumpherance about the
middle… it is 3 feet in length
tho a part of the end appears to have been broken off.
I have Several pieces of this rib the bone is neither
decayed nor petrified but very rotten.
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Reconstruction of
the “rib of a fish” from Clark’s description
and a small sketch he made on a map of this area
—Bob
Bergantino, MBMG |
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| The bone is from a terrestrial
dinosaur — perhaps a Triceratops or Tyrannosaurus. The
rock that held this bone is part of the Lance Formation (Cretaceous).
Dinosaurs were not recognized as a distinct group of animals
until 1840. |
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